Last Day - 18 March - Leaving Montevideo :-(

Our last day was a free day. We had arranged to meet Stella's niece, Inez, who was going to take us shopping. Inez speaks no english and we speak little spanish - the start to a VERY interesting day out (just as well I had my dictionary!). We had a successful tour of the shops, made a few purchases. Met up with some of the group for lunch - last chance at Lemon Meringue tarta! We were able to stay in our rooms until 5pm when the bus picked us up and took us to Montevideo airport. The first photo is taken from our seat on the bus - can you guess what it is? It's a petrol station - on the side of the road! How's that for a quick fill? Traffic snarls - who cares???

Had fun at Montevideo airport trying to spend our last pesos.

David took this photo from our window - the view of the Andes Mountains was breath taking! So big - it seemed to take forever to fly over them! LAN flew us to Santiago, and a short time later we were enroute to Auckland. Upon landing in NZ, David and I moved very quickly to the Qantas club lounge to enjoy a hot shower and freshen up! About 40 minutes later, we were flying to Sydney. By this time, some of us were feeling unwell with sinus problems..... landing in Sydney and then having to take off again and land in Brisbane was excruciating! Obviously it was time to come home! 31 hours of flying - but it was worth it!

Sadly, this is the end of my adventure - stay tuned - hopefully there'll be more!

Punta del Este! 17 March 2011

Only 1.5hrs from Montevideo, we arrived at Punta del Este - the beach resort where the rich & famous from Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil spend their holidays! We had a very interesting drive along the panoramic route visiting Piriapolis and Punta Ballena. We had a delicious lunch at the marina, complete with local sea lions; then crossed La Barra bridge

http://www.explore-uruguay.com/la-barra-bridge-picture.html. The best stop was at the unique, white house called 'Casapueblo'. Built by Carlos Paez Vilaro - painter, sculptor, poet - who, in the 60's started to build.

Casapueblo is the house of noted Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró located in Punta Ballena (Whale Point) near Punta del Este, Uruguay. It is a homage to the artist's son Carlitos Paez, one of the sixteen survivors of the crash of Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571. Casapueblo is now a citadel-sculpture that includes a museum, an art gallery, and the Hotel Casapueblo.

Built around a tin box called La Pionera (The Pioneer), Páez Vilaró designed it with a style that can be equated to the Mediterranean coast houses from Santorini.

Today a museum, Vilaro still lives and paints in Casapueblo and shares his house with visitors from around the world. Sunset at Casapueblo is one of Punta del Este's most genuine traditions.... Alas, we had to return to Montevideo before sunset - oh well, maybe next time!

16 March: Tour of Uruguay

David not well this morning, preferring to stay and sleep in the hotel room. I met Stella and the group at 10am and we walked across the road, to wait for the public bus! 18 Uruguayan pesos to downtown Montevideo (18 de Julio - Plaza Indepencia)!

This port area serves also at the border of the old and new parts of the city.

Ciudad Vieja (Old City) is the name of the oldest part of the city of Montevideo, capital city of Uruguay. Nowadays, Ciudad Vieja is a barrio (neighbourhood or district) of this city. In the last couple of years it has gone through a major transformation that has made it the main nightlife centre in town. It is in this area where most of the nightclubs are, and also it hosts the 'Mercado del Puerto' a traditional venue for Uruguayan food and beverages. The main port of Uruguay (being the main Big Draft port in southern South America) is located in Ciudad Vieja.

We had lunch at the portside area in an asado (grill house).

The afternoon tour was in another bus, we were taken to look at Government House in Montevideo. Frances, Robin and I were dropped off after the tour at Montevideo Shopping Village. Had a delicious afternoon tea of Cafe Cordata and Lemon Meringue tarta. Walked back to our hotel along 'the rambla' took us about 40 minutes.

David was feeling better upon my return to the hotel. We had to be ready for 8.30pm pick-up to go out for a dinner show called 'El Milognon'.

http://www.welcomeuruguay.com/montevideo/the-milongon.html

Stella told us it was the story of Uruguayan culture but - alas - the whole performance was narrated in spanish and we just couldn't keep up with it - so we had very little idea what they were singing or saying!

15 March - Colonia to Montevideo, Uruguay!

Today's itinerary: drive from Colonia to Montevideo, 2 hrs duration. Unfortunately, David and I both had cold symptoms with cough, so we set out after breakfast to find a 'farmacia'. We had checked the words we had to use, with Stella, and primed ourselves to converse in spanish and ask for cough medicine (jarabe) and tablets. The pharmacist understood (thankfully) and then was asking us where we were from and where we were going. Stumbled through that one - kicking ourselves when we walked outside and remembered what we should have said in spanish properly.... it's all experience I guess!

The drive to Montevideo was interesting - we stopped at a 'farm' with a cheese factory and it also housed the World Record setting collection of most keyrings and most pencils.

We arrived in Montevideo and checked in to 'Hotel Ermitage' (pictured left) and the view from our 4th floor hotel room (right) - the view of the Rio de la Plata - not the ocean!

Montevideo is the largest city, the capital, and the chief port of Uruguay. Established in 1726 by Bruno Mauricio de Zabala, the settlement was a strategic move amidst a Spanish-Portuguese dispute over the platine region, and as a counter to the Portuguese colony at Colonia del Sacramento. Montevideo has a population of approximately 1.4million people (about half of Uruguay's population).

The city hosted all 1st FIFA World Cup matches in 1930. Montevideo has a rich architectural and cultural heritage, the latter including tango and candombe. A study in 2007 can be quoted as saying that 'Montevideo provided the highest quality of life in Latin America'.

Quote: Described as a "vibrant, eclectic place with a rich cultural life", it is the hub of commerce and higher education in Uruguay: its first university, the Universidad de la República, was founded in 1849. The architecture of Montevideo, considered unrivalled in South America, reflects its history, ranging from colonial to Art Deco, and influenced by Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French and British immigrants.

We went for an afternoon walk along 'the rambler' - a walkway which runs the length of the city and fronts the beach and river. Had to be back and ready for dinner at 8.30pm at Stella's cousin, Marito's "Terracota Steakhouse" for asado. Stella went around the table with the waiter, who was very worried that he wouldn't understand us or our 'spanish' - but guess what? He did and we managed! Food and wine - fantastic and so was the service! Delicioso!

Crossing the Rio de la Plata!

Monday, 14 March, we departed our hotel and transferred to the port of Buenos Aires.

We boarded the Buquebus, speed ship to Colonia, Uruguay - a one hour crossing of the famous Rio de la Plata.

Colonia is considered a key to the rivers. It is located in a strategic position in order to control incoming ships to the Uruguay and Parana rivers and tributaries. From Solis on in 1516, Lusitanians, Spaniards, English and Dutchmen visited these coasts and islands aboard galleons and frigates. In January of 1680, Portuguese Manuel Lobo, in command of five ships, located the San Gabriel island and founded this fortress with the name of Sacramento. The colony, Colonia del Sacramento, was taken by Spanish force under the command of Antonia de Vera y Muxica in August of the same year. It was the first of seven changes – through war and diplomacy – that made it Portuguese and Spanish alternately. In 1778, it became definitely Spanish.

Today, it is a resort city, a port and the trade centre for a rich agricultural region. Built in Portuguese style of houses and cobblestoned streets, the historic portion of Colonia is reminiscent of old Lisbon. Winding streets and colourful houses are laid out in a pattern which is different from Spanish colonial cities, and interesting to explore.

Having checked in to our hotel, we went exploring around the streets of Colonia. David was 'on a mission' to check out and sample Uruguay's no. 1 beer - 'Patricia'. (David's mother's christian name) It was a light and very tasty, beer and came in the right sized bottle! We both ordered 'milanesa' for lunch (a schnitzel) - they were HUGE and covered the dinner plate!

We met Stella at 5pm for a walking tour. Colonia is very serene and beautiful, we even found tango dancers in an open auditorium. Dinner was at a restaurant called 'La Pasivta' and we sampled Uruguay's very traditional steak sandwich with 'the works' known as a 'chivitp'. Very yummy, if not HUGE as well!

We finished our wonderful evening sitting on the upper verandah of our Spanish style hotel, sipping red wine and enjoying the moonlit scenery in the park beside our hotel. Lovely!

Estancia Santa Susana

'By the end of last century, Mr Francisco Kelly, an Argentine citizen of Irish descendance named his land Santa Susana as a homage to his wife, Susana Caffrey. The ranch is located in the district of Campana, Buenos Aires province. It occupies an area of 1200 hectares (2965 acres) mainly dedicated to agricultural activities; and since around 25 years ago has also been exploited as a tourism resort.

In the ranch's pub (locally known as a "pulperia") several "gauchos" and "paisanas" (countrymen and women) will receive the visitors offering them delicious typical meat pies called "empanadas criollas"; accompanied by good wines.

The irresistible aspect starts upon the bell's toll announcing the eagerly awaited moment in that all guests will start to taste juicy and tender barbecued beef, other meat delicacies and fresh salads. The whole meal has its finishing touch with a typical "criollo" dessert called "pastelitos de membrillo" (small quince jam pies).

I can say unequivocally, that this was one of the best outings I've ever had. We had a one hour bus drive from the city to the ranch. Our tour guide, Tomas, explained about B.A., favellas and the nature of the ranch and the lifestyle of the gaucho. We enjoyed looking at the countryside outside the city centre - and were speechless when we spotted a 'Walmart' in a passing shopping centre!

Upon arrival, we were greeted with a warm empanada and choice of beverage. The barbeque (parilla) was well and truly smokin' and being prepared! David and I lined up to go horse riding, the gauchos helped us mount the horses. One of our group, Sara, gave us a quick lesson on horsemanship (ie steering a horse) so we were ready! Missed out on the carriage ride, but had a look around in the gift shop and made a purchase!

At 1.30 we 'mustered' inside, the bell was rung - time to be seated. We dined on salads, bread and chimichurri, with plenty of red wine and mineral water. Next, came the offerings from the parilla - a choice of chorizo, 'blood' sausage, bife (beef) and pollo (chicken). The beef portion I was given cut like cake, it was moist and full of flavour - divine! David had a taste of all offerings and was thoroughly impressed (full!).

We were treated to an entertainment show which included singing, tango dancing, button accordian and a gentleman who worked some ropes in a mezmerizing fashion. People were encouraged to participate and dance - it was a thoroughly merry time!

After the show, we were encouraged outside to watch the gauchos muster horses and participate in the 'Challenge of the Ring'. This involved the rider charging at a gantry dangling a ring to pluck off with a long rod implement. If the rider was successful, he would present the ring to a lady in the audience, in return for a kiss. It was entertaining - one married lady from our group who was presented with a ring, kissed not the gaucho, but his horse!!!

Unfortunately that was the end of the day, so... with full bellies and a tinge of sadness (only because it had come to an end!) we boarded the bus to return to the city.

Saturday's Walking Tour

We met in the foyer to begin a walking tour of Buenos Aires with Stella on Saturday morning.

The capital has undergone rebuilding since the beginning of the 20th century. The oldest buildings date from the early 1900's and some of the more elegant ones date from 1920's and 1930's. The city centre's layout has been maintained since foundation, thus the streets are often narrow and mostly one way. The original name of the city was 'Santa Maria del Buen Ayre' in recognition of the good winds which brought the sailors across the ocean.

The Plaza de Mayo is the heart of the city. East of it is the Casa de Gobierno. It is also called Casa Rosada because it is pink, and is the office of the President of the Republic. The current President is Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner.

The next photo is one of Florida Ave which is a mall within the shopping district.

At the junction of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenidas Roque Sainz Pena and Corrientes is a 67 metre Obelisk built to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the city's founding.

We also enjoyed morning tea at Cafe Tortoni, the oldest cafe in South America.

We spent the afternoon wandering at leisure, walked down to Puerto Moderno and back to Florida Ave for a late lunch and shopping.