Estancia Santa Susana

'By the end of last century, Mr Francisco Kelly, an Argentine citizen of Irish descendance named his land Santa Susana as a homage to his wife, Susana Caffrey. The ranch is located in the district of Campana, Buenos Aires province. It occupies an area of 1200 hectares (2965 acres) mainly dedicated to agricultural activities; and since around 25 years ago has also been exploited as a tourism resort.

In the ranch's pub (locally known as a "pulperia") several "gauchos" and "paisanas" (countrymen and women) will receive the visitors offering them delicious typical meat pies called "empanadas criollas"; accompanied by good wines.

The irresistible aspect starts upon the bell's toll announcing the eagerly awaited moment in that all guests will start to taste juicy and tender barbecued beef, other meat delicacies and fresh salads. The whole meal has its finishing touch with a typical "criollo" dessert called "pastelitos de membrillo" (small quince jam pies).

I can say unequivocally, that this was one of the best outings I've ever had. We had a one hour bus drive from the city to the ranch. Our tour guide, Tomas, explained about B.A., favellas and the nature of the ranch and the lifestyle of the gaucho. We enjoyed looking at the countryside outside the city centre - and were speechless when we spotted a 'Walmart' in a passing shopping centre!

Upon arrival, we were greeted with a warm empanada and choice of beverage. The barbeque (parilla) was well and truly smokin' and being prepared! David and I lined up to go horse riding, the gauchos helped us mount the horses. One of our group, Sara, gave us a quick lesson on horsemanship (ie steering a horse) so we were ready! Missed out on the carriage ride, but had a look around in the gift shop and made a purchase!

At 1.30 we 'mustered' inside, the bell was rung - time to be seated. We dined on salads, bread and chimichurri, with plenty of red wine and mineral water. Next, came the offerings from the parilla - a choice of chorizo, 'blood' sausage, bife (beef) and pollo (chicken). The beef portion I was given cut like cake, it was moist and full of flavour - divine! David had a taste of all offerings and was thoroughly impressed (full!).

We were treated to an entertainment show which included singing, tango dancing, button accordian and a gentleman who worked some ropes in a mezmerizing fashion. People were encouraged to participate and dance - it was a thoroughly merry time!

After the show, we were encouraged outside to watch the gauchos muster horses and participate in the 'Challenge of the Ring'. This involved the rider charging at a gantry dangling a ring to pluck off with a long rod implement. If the rider was successful, he would present the ring to a lady in the audience, in return for a kiss. It was entertaining - one married lady from our group who was presented with a ring, kissed not the gaucho, but his horse!!!

Unfortunately that was the end of the day, so... with full bellies and a tinge of sadness (only because it had come to an end!) we boarded the bus to return to the city.