Crossing the Rio de la Plata!

Monday, 14 March, we departed our hotel and transferred to the port of Buenos Aires.

We boarded the Buquebus, speed ship to Colonia, Uruguay - a one hour crossing of the famous Rio de la Plata.

Colonia is considered a key to the rivers. It is located in a strategic position in order to control incoming ships to the Uruguay and Parana rivers and tributaries. From Solis on in 1516, Lusitanians, Spaniards, English and Dutchmen visited these coasts and islands aboard galleons and frigates. In January of 1680, Portuguese Manuel Lobo, in command of five ships, located the San Gabriel island and founded this fortress with the name of Sacramento. The colony, Colonia del Sacramento, was taken by Spanish force under the command of Antonia de Vera y Muxica in August of the same year. It was the first of seven changes – through war and diplomacy – that made it Portuguese and Spanish alternately. In 1778, it became definitely Spanish.

Today, it is a resort city, a port and the trade centre for a rich agricultural region. Built in Portuguese style of houses and cobblestoned streets, the historic portion of Colonia is reminiscent of old Lisbon. Winding streets and colourful houses are laid out in a pattern which is different from Spanish colonial cities, and interesting to explore.

Having checked in to our hotel, we went exploring around the streets of Colonia. David was 'on a mission' to check out and sample Uruguay's no. 1 beer - 'Patricia'. (David's mother's christian name) It was a light and very tasty, beer and came in the right sized bottle! We both ordered 'milanesa' for lunch (a schnitzel) - they were HUGE and covered the dinner plate!

We met Stella at 5pm for a walking tour. Colonia is very serene and beautiful, we even found tango dancers in an open auditorium. Dinner was at a restaurant called 'La Pasivta' and we sampled Uruguay's very traditional steak sandwich with 'the works' known as a 'chivitp'. Very yummy, if not HUGE as well!

We finished our wonderful evening sitting on the upper verandah of our Spanish style hotel, sipping red wine and enjoying the moonlit scenery in the park beside our hotel. Lovely!

Estancia Santa Susana

'By the end of last century, Mr Francisco Kelly, an Argentine citizen of Irish descendance named his land Santa Susana as a homage to his wife, Susana Caffrey. The ranch is located in the district of Campana, Buenos Aires province. It occupies an area of 1200 hectares (2965 acres) mainly dedicated to agricultural activities; and since around 25 years ago has also been exploited as a tourism resort.

In the ranch's pub (locally known as a "pulperia") several "gauchos" and "paisanas" (countrymen and women) will receive the visitors offering them delicious typical meat pies called "empanadas criollas"; accompanied by good wines.

The irresistible aspect starts upon the bell's toll announcing the eagerly awaited moment in that all guests will start to taste juicy and tender barbecued beef, other meat delicacies and fresh salads. The whole meal has its finishing touch with a typical "criollo" dessert called "pastelitos de membrillo" (small quince jam pies).

I can say unequivocally, that this was one of the best outings I've ever had. We had a one hour bus drive from the city to the ranch. Our tour guide, Tomas, explained about B.A., favellas and the nature of the ranch and the lifestyle of the gaucho. We enjoyed looking at the countryside outside the city centre - and were speechless when we spotted a 'Walmart' in a passing shopping centre!

Upon arrival, we were greeted with a warm empanada and choice of beverage. The barbeque (parilla) was well and truly smokin' and being prepared! David and I lined up to go horse riding, the gauchos helped us mount the horses. One of our group, Sara, gave us a quick lesson on horsemanship (ie steering a horse) so we were ready! Missed out on the carriage ride, but had a look around in the gift shop and made a purchase!

At 1.30 we 'mustered' inside, the bell was rung - time to be seated. We dined on salads, bread and chimichurri, with plenty of red wine and mineral water. Next, came the offerings from the parilla - a choice of chorizo, 'blood' sausage, bife (beef) and pollo (chicken). The beef portion I was given cut like cake, it was moist and full of flavour - divine! David had a taste of all offerings and was thoroughly impressed (full!).

We were treated to an entertainment show which included singing, tango dancing, button accordian and a gentleman who worked some ropes in a mezmerizing fashion. People were encouraged to participate and dance - it was a thoroughly merry time!

After the show, we were encouraged outside to watch the gauchos muster horses and participate in the 'Challenge of the Ring'. This involved the rider charging at a gantry dangling a ring to pluck off with a long rod implement. If the rider was successful, he would present the ring to a lady in the audience, in return for a kiss. It was entertaining - one married lady from our group who was presented with a ring, kissed not the gaucho, but his horse!!!

Unfortunately that was the end of the day, so... with full bellies and a tinge of sadness (only because it had come to an end!) we boarded the bus to return to the city.

Saturday's Walking Tour

We met in the foyer to begin a walking tour of Buenos Aires with Stella on Saturday morning.

The capital has undergone rebuilding since the beginning of the 20th century. The oldest buildings date from the early 1900's and some of the more elegant ones date from 1920's and 1930's. The city centre's layout has been maintained since foundation, thus the streets are often narrow and mostly one way. The original name of the city was 'Santa Maria del Buen Ayre' in recognition of the good winds which brought the sailors across the ocean.

The Plaza de Mayo is the heart of the city. East of it is the Casa de Gobierno. It is also called Casa Rosada because it is pink, and is the office of the President of the Republic. The current President is Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner.

The next photo is one of Florida Ave which is a mall within the shopping district.

At the junction of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenidas Roque Sainz Pena and Corrientes is a 67 metre Obelisk built to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the city's founding.

We also enjoyed morning tea at Cafe Tortoni, the oldest cafe in South America.

We spent the afternoon wandering at leisure, walked down to Puerto Moderno and back to Florida Ave for a late lunch and shopping.

Friday continued....

Spent the afternoon after the tour doing some walking and shopping around the city. It was Stella's anniversary (our tour guide) and we went for a two-course dinner at a local restaurant called 'Suipacha'. We walked there through the city streets and malls, past the evening markets, the tango dancers, the singers, beggars and the hawkers...

It was a traditional meal in a very old, traditional Argentinian style restaurant. An elderly gentleman was playing a 'button accordian' very beautifully, a skill which is slowly dying out.

David and I bought a bottle of champagne to celebrate with Stella... there was almost an 'international incident' when I went to pay for the bottle at the bar - they thought I'd asked for another one and were about to open it! I was trying to make myself understood that I wanted to pay for the first bottle only - I started to panic! Somehow I was able to collect my thoughts and make myself understood, which the bar staff all found very amusing! I was flustered! By the time the manager came to accept my payment, I was explaining my situation to him and he told Stella that I was speaking spanish very well for someone who'd been learning as long as I had.... maybe he was just being very kind!!!!

On tour!

Awoke Friday, 11 March to the news of the devastating 'terremoto' (earthquake) in Japan.

Left with Muhammed by bus for our city tour - first stop San Telmo and La Boca.

The old port district of La Boca is distinctive with its brightly painted tin and wooden houses as seen along Caminito, the little pedestrian street used as an art market. La Boca is the poorest and roughest area within central Buenos Aires. The area is especially rowdy when the Boca Juniors Football Club is playing at home, at the Boca Juniors Stadium.

First picture is the mural outside the stadium. Second picture is of the Caminito - brightly coloured and interesting street with lots of artistic wares for sale. It had a happy, carnivale atmosphere. Plenty of Policia Turistica around also helped with the feeling of security. We saw the tango dancers, people in costumes posing for photos or offering to take photos. Lots of art work for sale, we bought a small portrait as a momento, the transaction in spanish, of course!

The third picture is of a sculpture named 'La Flor'.

Donated by Eduardo Catalo this massive metal flower is a nice place to visit…for ten minutes. Well, since it opens and closes with the sun via hydraulic machinery you might be able to spend a few more minutes if you time your evening or morning correctly. The “show” is more impressive at night because the lights around the base of the sculpture have more effect.

We didn't get down at night to see it, unfortunately. But it is certainly impressive!

Finally, we drove down to the Puerto Madero dock area which has been renovated; the 19th century warehouses have become restaurants and bars. There are also two ships now museums - one previously a naval ship; the other the Corbeta uruguay which rescued an Antarctic expedition in 1903.

To Buenos Aires!

Thursday 10 March: Checked out at 10am and headed for Bariloche airport. We flew to Buenos Aires - our seats were in row 3 with a window! We liked the snack on LAN, it was a small box containing cheese biscuits, a lemon galletita (shortbread style biscuit) and a chocolate alfajor. Alfajores are typical Argentine (as well as much of Latin American) snacks, and Havanna is a local manufacturer that produces them. An alfajor consists of a sandwich cookie (with a cake-like consistency) filled with dulce de leche (like our condensed milk boiled caramel) and coated in chocolate (other varieties had a vanilla coating).

Our arrival at Buenos Aires domestic airport was 'interesting'. We had to wait almost 15 minutes for somewhere to park. It seems that the airport traffic has grown and is busy - but there is no land left to expand the airport! We finally 'parked' opposite the terminal and had to walk down the stairs and step straight on to a bus. Hence as soon as I was on the bus, I stuck my camera out the window to take a picture to show what was happening! A quick drive to the terminal and we found our carousel. No bags came.... We had to wait 30 minutes for the baggage to start coming through and a further 30 minutes until ours came out - LAST. We were starting to wonder if they had our bags at all!

The airport was busy and crowded. We went out the front to find our bus and it was chaos. Finally our bus arrived and we loaded, headed for the city centre. It was a short drive, but past the shanty town (slum). We drove over a bridge past the slum and found on the other side, tall apartment buildings and the city. Streets were crammed with traffic and very narrow, except for the main promenade which is the widest street in the world with six lanes in each direction!

Arrived at our hotel: Gran Hotel Orly in Paraguay Street. Great location, only two blocks from Florida, the central mall area. I was a little fazed when we got off the bus to find a woman and her children sitting on the footpath outside the hotel, begging. We walked as a group to Florida Street and found the Galleria Pacifica - a very modern shopping plaza with a vast array of shops. We had some lunch and wandered around. To finish off, we wanted coffee and found a restaurant/bar. Took a photo of the food presented: coffee is always accompanied by a small glass of soda water or water; beer is always accompanied by a silver tray containing potato chips, nuts and pretzels. A HUGE slice of tart..... Wow - very nice! Special occasion treats only!

Destination: San Carlos de Bariloche

7.00pm: We had a short time at the hotel at Puerto Blest - time enough for a coffee and comfort stop. I took the first photo (above) as the 'Victoria Andina' catamaran set sail from the wharf for the 1 hr trip along Lake Nahuel Huapi to Puerto Panuelo. From there, we boarded a bus which took us to Bariloche.

We arrived at 9.30pm at the Grand Hotel. We were very tired from such a long, exciting trip. We were served a Patagonian dinner of empanadas, cold meats and salad, breads, beer and wine. We grew to like empanadas - very similar to a cornish pastie but with boiled eggs, olives, herbs and spices, onions in alongside the mince.

Bariloche is an attractive, chalet-style tourist town and the best location for exploring the National Park.

Population: 89 000.

It was fairly windy and cool in Bariloche. On Wednesday, we had the morning to explore the streets and visit the beautiful shops and chocolate cafeterias. Had to find somewhere to change money: another exchange rate to get used to. $US1 = 4 Argentinian pesos. Did some shopping!

Stella had organised a city tour which began at midday - included the chairlift, Llao Llao (pronounced 'Sh-ow' as in cow, a 5*) hotel and Rosehip Oil factory. It was cold and rainy for most of the day.

In the afternoon we had a late lunch. David was most impressed with the beer he ordered when he saw the size of it!!! Next, we did some more walking around the town, found the post office and David bought a wallet at a good quality leather shop. We found a beautiful parrilla restaurant to try for dinner. Felix and Robin joined us. Some of the others went for dinner at a Swiss fondue (cheese) restaurant. We dined at 'El Boliche de Alberto' which was the most brilliant, tender meat ever! HUGE serving! We also tried a bottle of 'malbec' red wine - magnificent!

Crossing the Border

3.00pm We boarded the bus with destination to Puerto Frias, Customs procedures to exit Chile and enter Argentina. Whilst at the customs office, the bus driver found a furry arachnid 'friend' and brought him in to show us! David was questioned by the customs officer about his rank, headquarters and about being a police officer.....

We boarded the bus and I took the picture below of what the dirt road looked like!

A short time later we crossed the border into Argentina - crossing picture below. Our bags were not chosen to be randomly searched. At Puerto Frias, we boarded a small vessel for a 20 minute sail to Puerto Alegre. From P.Alegre we took the bus to Puerto Blest.

Last picture: Another picture stop to take a photo of (volcano) Mount Tronador, on the road to the Argentian border.

Sailing the Andes

Tuesday, 8 March. www.cruceandino.com

Cruce Andino follows the route that more than 400 years ago the Huilliches (the natives of Southern Chile) used as a commercial route; and later the Jesuits of Chiloe used to found the mission in the Nahuel Huapi region.

The area contains two important national parks: Vicente Perez Rosales on the Chilean side and Nahuel Huapi in Argentina.

8.30am we departed our hotel, for a two hour bus drive to Petrohue wharf. Along the way, we stopped at Parque Nacional Vincente Perez Rosales to look at the Petrohue Rapids and views of the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes.

10.30am we set sail to Peulla, across Todos los Santos Lake on Lagos Andinos Catamaran. It had a capacity of 300 passengers with bar-caferteria, music and a souvenir store. The weather was absolutely perfect, we were able to take many beautiful pictures of this pristine area. We were also able to take a picture of the third volcano, Puntiagudo.

12.30pm We arrived at Peulla, an ecological village - 'paradise' for nature lovers. We dined at 'Hotel Natura Patagonia' on a delicious three course lunch. David and Frances had organised on the catamaran to take a 30minute helicopter tour of the area, so they departed for what they said later, was a most 'majestic experience'. David was able to video some of the flight.

Puerto Varas

The Southern lakes area is one of the most beautiful in Chile. With its volcano views and German-influenced towns, Lago Llanquihue adjoins the Parque Nacional Vicente Perez Rosales, the oldest national park in the country. This is the most memorable lakes route to Argentina, with views on Lago Todos los Santos of three volcanoes and waterfalls.

Puerto Varas is 30 minutes by bus from Puerto Montt. Rosebushes (no picking allowed) and typical regional flora, German influenced architecture and streets which end at its magical waterfront can be enjoyed both day and night. Views of both Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes whose summits are always covered by snow are silhouetted against the lake.

We enjoyed a walk from our hotel down to the centre of town and wandered through the many and varied shops. Chile is well known for its lapiz lazuli and copper, so finding a jewellery shop was a 'must'. We also found a very good coffee shop with marvellous cappuccinos to enjoy. David and I ate a delicious seafood meal at 'Las Buenos Barars' before retiring to our hotel room with its view of the Llanquihue lake and two volcanoes.

Santiago - Puerto Montt

A quick early morning walk in Santiago to capture the animated street crossing signal - the only one in the city. Also took a picture example of the 'street dogs' which roam the city and nobody seems to mind. They look as if they're well fed, so someone looks after them. They were not aggressive at all, just wander around living on the streets.

Said goodbye to Santiago and transferred to the airport to fly 1.5hrs to Puerto Montt.

Valparaiso and Vina del Mar

Day Tour: Valparaiso and Vina del Mar

First settled in 1542, Valparaiso was a small port used for trade with Peru. Raided by pirates in the Colonial Period, it was officially 'founded' until late in 20th century. Current population is 300 000. The city is in a state of revivial after a period of decline, is now known as the 'Cultural Capital of Chile' and much work is being done to renovate the historical centre and museums. Some forty-two hills rear up from the sea, the residential areas obey little order and houses have a slightly bohemian appearance. It is home to a naval base.

Vina del Mar is one of South America's leading seaside beach resorts. Commonly called just 'Vina' (Vee-nya), it developed in the 1870's as an exclusive residential and summer areas for Chile's middle-upper classes.

We walked up and down many of the streets in Valparaiso and noted the historic buildings, cobblestone streets and colourful houses - gaining their colour as the residents used left-over paint to finish their houses. Ate a delightful seafood lunch at a restaurant in Vina before returning to Santiago in the evening.

Found a delightful Peruvian restaurant for the evening meal, and tried the local drink, 'Pisco Sour' - which we enjoyed, although too sweet for me!

5 March continued

Next, we boarded the bus for a tour of districts close to the city. We couldn't believe our eyes when we saw a man juggling at the traffic lights - begging for change!

We dined at 'La Va Quita Echa' on rib filete, papas fritas, heuvos y cerveza. Entertainment included being serenaded by Latin musicians and Latin dancing - including Tango!

Next was a visit to 'Concha y Toro' winery.

The Concha y Toro Vineyard was founded by Don Melchor de Santiago Concha y Toro and his wife, Emiliana Subercaseaux, in 1883. To start the winery, he brought grape varieties from the Bordeaux region in France. The grapes that he brought were: Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Merlot, and Carmenère. The vineyard was incorporated as a stock company in 1923 and shares were sold in the Santiago stock market. Concha y Toro began exporting wine in March 1933 to the port of Rotterdam, Holland. In 1950, the winery began to acquire more vineyards and also began the process of adapting its business to new markets and meeting a higher demand.

In 1971, Eduardo Guilisasti Tagle became Chairman of the Board, who succeeded in expanding the company. In 1987, after partnering with U.S. importer Banfi Vintners, the company started to incorporate more advanced technology in all of its production stages. It also started using small French oak barriques. In 1994, shares of Viña Concha started trading on the New York Stock Exchange.

Not only the origins of Concha y Toro are connected to Chilean nobility and aristocracy. Nowadays the directory of the company is composed by the present Marquess of Casa Concha, a Chilean diplomat and ambassador. In 1999, the company's president Alfonso Larraín Santa María claimed the title of Marquess of Larraín in Spain. Her mother, the current Marchioness, gave Larraín the power to claim the title.

Concha y Toro produces several different wine styles including a Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc made from grapes the Maule Valley. They also produce a barrel fermented Chardonnay and a single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon named after the winery's founder, Don Melchor. The wine comes from the Puente Alto Vineyard in Maipo Valley.

This wine is available here in Australia! We enjoyed our tour and finished it with a free sample and wine glass souvenir! Of course, you'll see in the above photo, we bought take aways as well! Yummo!

Having an interesting time adjusting to the money: Chilean peso $US1 = 458 pesos.

Santiago, Chile

Santiago stands on a plain with the Andes in the background. Population: 6 million. Nearly 40% of Chileans live in and around Santiago, now the sixth largest city in South America.

5 March: We did a Santiago city tour including the Plaza de Armas, the city's central square. Home to the Cathedral and Post Office (pictured). We also saw the Palacio de la Mondea (Presidential Palace built in 1805. (pictured).

4 March - Adventure begins!

We are setting off on an adventure to South America!

We have joined a spanish class and met some lovely people. The group, together with their teacher, invited us on a two week tour of Chile, Argentina and Uruguay.

We left Australia on Friday, 4 March and arrived in Santiago, Chile on Friday, 4 March!

We flew from Sydney to Santiago via Auckland on LAN airline - time to start practising our spanish with the flight attendants and crew!